Is it difficult to connect smart modules? | ROBBshop to the rescue
Connecting smart switches can be a difficult job, but with the tips from the ROBBshop you are well prepared and you will not run into surprises. For example, use small junction boxes, this simplifies the installation process because these junction boxes require much less installation space. Please contact us if you are unsure that our wireless home automation applications can also be used in your office or home.
|Bruine draad||Live, de kant waar de stroom op staat|
|Blauwe draad||Neutraal draad|
|Centraaldoos||De doos in het plafond waar doorgaans de lamp hangt.|
|Inbouwdoos||De doos waar normaal gesproken een schakelaar of een stopcontact in gemonteerd word.|
On the left a 2-wire connection is shown, this is the situation in most homes. The switch in the flush-mounted box is connected to the brown wire. When the switch is turned on, the black wire is supplied with power. There is no blue wire, so there is no steam in the flush-mounted box. After all, for electricity you need a brown and a blue wire. This is the case in the middle diagram. A blue wire has been pulled back from the central box (the box on the ceiling where the lamp is mounted). In the middle, the blue wire is present in the flush-mounted box (3-wire system).
In the right-most figure you can see how the switch module is connected. The module itself needs a blue wire because it needs power itself to operate.
Note that the switch is no longer directly connected to the lamp, but to the module. The switch and the wireless (Z-wave) signal from the base station are both input signals for the smart switch. The smart switch responds to these signals by switching the lamp on or off (the FIBARO dimmer is an exception, it also works without a blue wire).
Also take a look at our projects page, there is a lot of information. Among other things, about connecting the modules when you do not have a blue wire at your disposal.
Connecting domotics switching modules with Z-wave
You can see the usual situation on the left in the image. The brown (live) wire runs through the switch to the lamp. The blue (Neutral) wire runs directly from the group (meter cupboard) to the lamp and therefore does not run via the switch. This means that only 1 wire of the required 2 is present in the flush-mounted box. This is called a 2-wire system in which the black (switching wire) is also included. Z-wave switches need power themselves and that is missing when the lamp is switched off. For a sulfur switch module to work properly, you need a blue (neutral wire) in the installation box. Usually you can pull it in by pulling back the black wire from the flush-mounted box with a new black wire and blue wire. This can be a job for an electrician, because when the wire comes loose you have a problem, therefore the wires must be connected very well.
Connecting domotics dimmer modules with Z-wave
Zwave dimmers work slightly differently than z-wave switches. Unlike the latter, dimmers do not interrupt the electrical circuit when the lamp is switched off. As a result, it is not necessarily necessary to have a blue wire (and therefore a 3 wire system) for the sulfur module to function properly. Most z-wave dimmers can be connected to a 2-wire system (so without blue wire present in the flush-mounted box). The Qubino dimmer always needs a blue (neutral) wire. You can find more about the difference between FIBARO and Qubino dimmers here.
Do you want to test in advance whether the FIBARO and Qubino modules fit behind your switchgear in the flush-mounted box? Then order our built-in dummy module.
ROBBshop also has a short description with its projects how you can include a smart built-in module in a smart home hotel circuit
For questions you can always email or call us. click here for our contact details, or click on the contact button on the right of the browser.
Instruction video for the 3-wire connection of a FIBARO dimmer module.